Exchange ALDE 3000 for 3030

Reading time 8 minutes

Updated - February 17, 2025

The old ALDE 3000 water heater will eventually reach the end of its life and will need to be replaced with the current 3030 or 3030 Plus model. The 3030 Plus has a continuous flow heater that provides hot water permanently. If this is not a requirement, the 3030, which is around 10% cheaper, will do the job.

The main differences to the 3000 are the fully electronic control, the ten-litre boiler and the 3 kW electric heater, as well as the option to dynamically limit the electric heating output depending on other consumers in order to prevent the annoying fuse from blowing in the vehicle or at the campsite.

Purchasing the heater, which costs around 4,000 euros, is one thing, removing and installing it is another.

Therefore, below are instructions for successfully exchanging the old ALDE 3000 for the new 3030 based on a Flair 7100 from 2005, including information that is partly missing or unclearly documented in the ALDE documentation.

Expansion of the old ALDE 3000

Extracting the antifreeze

Before the actual removal, the glycol fluid must be drained. Draining requires a drain valve, which is not installed. So the fluid must be sucked out as far as possible using a suction pump and a hose about 2 m long.

To do this, the suction hose is fed into the right-hand piping of the expansion tank and pushed forward almost to the first bend. The pump outlet is connected via another hose, which in turn leads into a canister to collect the antifreeze.

The canister should hold at least 5 liters, since 3.5 liters are already in the boiler and additional liters are in the heating system.

Disconnecting the electrical connections

All connectors are then disconnected from the heater. The 230 V supply line is permanently connected internally.

First, the mains power supply must be disconnected.
If an inverter is installed, it must be switched off.

After the top cover has been removed by loosening the four self-tapping screws, the power connectors can be unplugged and the yellow-green earth wire can be removed by loosening the screw on the housing.

Disconnecting the gas line

Before working on the gas system, the valves of the gas bottles,
and close the shut-off valve belonging to the heater.

The threads on the gas system are always left-hand threads, ie tighten anti-clockwise and loosen clockwise. The usual compression fittings seal by the conical ring that is attached to the gas pipe when tightened, thus creating a gas-tight connection. To ensure that the clamping takes place correctly, the screw connection must be tightened very firmly using a wrench while holding it in place.

This means that once a screw connection has been tightened, it can only be tightened again after loosening by shortening the pipe by just under 2 cm from the end, thus creating an intact pipe end again.

Gas pipes are cut – burr-free – with a pipe cutter, not with a saw or similar.

The screw connection of the gas connection is then loosened by turning it clockwise. This may require considerable force.

Disconnecting the cold and hot water connections

Before this step, be sure to disconnect the pressure water pump from the 12 V power supply!

First, all screws that attach the heater to the floor must be loosened. Then the cold and hot water systems are drained via the installed drainage valves.

To collect any remaining water in the system, suitable bowls and absorbent cloths should be on hand.

The hose clamps are pulled from the hose connector over the rubber hose using a special tool or combination pliers until the hose can be pulled off the connector. When pulling, proceed slowly so that any water that may escape can be collected in small doses. Only pull the hose off completely when no more water is flowing out.

Slightly lifting the rear area of the heater may allow more water to escape.

Disconnecting the supply/return hoses

Although most of the antifreeze has been drained away, it cannot be ruled out that there is still a considerable amount in the system. Hose clamps should therefore be placed on the soft spots on the supply and return lines to close off the hoses.

Since antifreeze may still be left in the boiler, the hose connected at the top should first be freed from the hose clamp in the same way as when disconnecting the water hoses. A second person positions a drip tray under the hose connection to be disconnected to catch any escaping antifreeze. A roll of absorbent paper helps to soak up small amounts of the agent. Slowly pull the hose off until a slot is exposed by tilting it slightly and any escaping antifreeze can be caught in small amounts.

Finally, the same procedure is followed with the lower connection. Here, collecting the water is more difficult because there is not enough space below the hose connection. Therefore, temporarily raise the heater using pieces of wood.

If no more antifreeze comes out of the lower connection, tilt the heater upwards with the connections you just loosened to prevent any remaining liquid from escaping.

Disconnecting the exhaust and supply air hose

After loosening the hose clamp on the air supply spiral hose, carefully pry it off all around using a large screwdriver. Be very careful when doing this to keep deformation as minimal as possible and to ensure that it can be reused.

After loosening the spiral hose, push it back forcefully to gain access to the exhaust hose inside and the hose clamp that holds it. Only loosen this hose clamp so far that it can be pushed away from the connection piece area. At a distance of about two centimeters, tighten the hose clamp again so that it cannot disappear inside on its own...

Carefully loosen and remove the stainless steel exhaust hose. Carefully remove any deformations using fine pliers. Before placing it on the nozzle of the new heater, gently widen the edge outwards using a thick screwdriver shaft to create a conical receptacle that is easier to push onto the nozzle.

The heater can now be removed in a vertical position and taken out of the vehicle.

Installation of the new ALDE 3030

As the assembly instructions often say at this point: “Installation is done in the reverse order.” Well, now we all know, right?!

First, the heater needs to be maneuvered past the existing hose connections into the installation position. In order to make it easier to access, you should avoid an identical installation position and position the heater with the rear corner flush with the cutout, but as far to the left as possible at the front.

This results in a better fit for the connection of the exhaust and air supply hoses at the rear right, and more space at the front right for the installation of the water and antifreeze connections.

Since the cold/hot water, flow and return connections on the ALDE 3030 (Plus) have been installed on the right-hand side, they must be adapted to the existing conditions using angles and (enclosed) rubber hoses.

To connect the gas line, it is recommended that you attach a coupling with a compression fitting on both sides to the connection on the device side before it has been installed and tighten it very well!

Connection of the exhaust and supply air hose

The exhaust hose is carefully pushed onto the exhaust nozzle and, once it has gripped all the way around, is pushed forward firmly until it stops. The hose clamp is loosened a little further until it fits over the area of the connection nozzle. Once the hose clamp is in the desired position and has been tightened, the air supply hose can be pushed onto the corresponding hose nozzle and also secured with the hose clamp.

Connecting the supply and return hoses

Once the hoses have been modified to suit, both can be connected one after the other. The hose clamps remain in position. Only after the hose clamps hold the hose securely on the fitting are the two hose clamps loosened and removed.

Connecting the cold and hot water hoses

These also have to be trimmed to fit before they can be connected to the corresponding connectors and secured with the hose clamps in the usual way.

Filling the system with antifreeze

The collected antifreeze (if it has not already been replaced) can be refilled. If there is not enough antifreeze to fill the expansion tank to the middle liquid level, new antifreeze must be added.

During filling, a second person monitors the tightness of all relevant hose connections!

Filling the system with fresh water

After the drainage valves for cold and hot water have been closed, the pressure pump can be activated by slightly opening a tap and the boiler can be filled with fresh water.

Here too, a second person should keep an eye on the tightness of the connections!

Connecting the gas line

For the gas line, a new piece of gas pipe is required, bent to suit, alternatively with a 90° angle, which has been cut to the appropriate length.

Check all new gas line connections for leaks.
Perform pressure test!

If the leak test has been successfully completed, the gas cylinder and shut-off valves can be opened again.

Electrical connection

The permanently connected 230 V electrical cable (3 x 2.5 mm²) to the vehicle's electrical installation. WAGO terminals are suitable for this (not lamp terminals!).

The 12 V connection should be made via a 5 A fuse.

The control panel is connected to the red sockets in the control panel (under the red plastic cover) and to the connection board of the heater (under the black plastic cover) using the cable supplied, after appropriate routing to the old control panel.

Installation

Press the left button “I” to switch the system on. Press the right button “Menu” to call up the main menu.

Settings via the standard display

Setting the day of the week and time

After switching on the device for the first time, tap on the hour and minute display in the top right corner. On the screen that is now accessible, you can tap on the On– / Away-Buttons Set the day of the week, hour and minute and tap on “Set" save.

Setting day / night operation

By tapping on the sun or moon symbol in the upper left-hand corner of the panel, you can set the start and end times of the heating operation, as well as the corresponding desired temperature, or activate or deactivate the days of the week.
Different times of day can be set via the Timing control be set.

The setting for hot water preparation is also available in these menus. If the graphic switch “Hot water” is activated, the hot water preparation is active. In the settings for Day operation the switch is immediately visible, while in the menu for Night operation You first have to switch to the second page by swiping from bottom to top in order to gain access to the switch.

Setting electricity / gas operation

Tap the field at the bottom left with the symbols lightning for power operation and flame for gas operation, enables (with a load monitor connected) the adjustment of the power in 1 kW steps from 1 .. 3 kW, or activation or deactivation of gas operation.

Setting hot water preparation / priority

Tapping the drop and thermometer symbol at the bottom right opens the settings menu for hot water preparation.
Off – On – Boost are the choices. Boost corresponds to the priority circuit for hot water preparation. Here, the circulation pump is simply switched off until the water has reached its target temperature. Only then does the circulation pump become active again.

Temporary room temperature change

If you tap the middle of the panel (temperature display), you will be taken to a setting option for the room temperature, which is independent of the basic day/night settings. By tapping Plus or Minus the temperature setting can be adjusted as desired.

Settings via the “Menu” button

Press the right button menu leads to scrollable menu items:

• Night mode – time setting Start / End of night mode, as well as desired Night temperature, switch off display, hot water preparation (2nd menu page)
• Day mode – time setting Start / End of the day mode, as well as desired Day temperature, hot water preparation
• Pump – continuous operation activated – deactivated
• Time control – from the basic time settings different times of heating operation
• External start – enables e.g. start optionally via radio or when connecting the 230 V shore power supply
  (The control panel or the heater must be switched OFF in these start modes)
• Sensor calibration – if the displayed room temperature differs from the actual one, you can adjust it by tapping Plus / Minus a corrected display can be achieved
• Screen – Brightness low – medium – high, status page normal – inverted – dark
• Sound – key tone on off, notification tone on off
• Language - English – German – French
• Service information – Overview of all current operating parameters
• System configuration – pump (Normal / PWM), Aqua clear, remote control, 2-zone – installed – not installed
• Reset – Reset all settings to the factory defaults

Load monitor

The optionally available load monitor is a very useful option, as it serves to protect against exceeding the maximum load permitted by the fuse and thus against the fuse being triggered.

It consists of a cast coil, through whose central opening the phase or neutral conductor leading to the consumers is fed. The two-core connection cable is connected to the top left slot in the electronics box of the ALDE heater.

In this way, the total current is measured and the power of the electric heater is automatically adjusted according to the set maximum permissible limit when additional electrical consumers are switched on.

The load monitor is activated on the main screen by touching the lower left status field Electricity gas and then press the button Plus activated. The starting value is 5 A, repeated pressing on Plus increases the value by 1 A. When the desired value is displayed, the setting can be confirmed by pressing Set get saved.

Gas consumption

According to the data sheet, the ALDE 3030 has two gas output levels with around 3.5 kW at a consumption of around 260 g/h, or an average of 6 kW at 430 g/h.

When the outside temperature is colder and electricity is consumed by other appliances, the load monitor reduces the electrical consumption of the heating. The gas heating - which is switched on - then maintains the desired comfort temperature.

Conclusion

The conversion was worth it and was completed by two people within three hours. It is worth asking around and getting different quotes. Everything was available between 5,800 euros (without price guarantee and an estimated 10 hours from renowned caravan dealers) and 4,100 euros (from a small but fine manufacturer of individual pick-up camper cabins). The latter was awarded the contract and the second person, yours truly, only had an assisting role.

Installing the new control panel in place of the old one, including laying the cable and mounting the adapter front, took around an hour. Laying the connection cable and connecting the load monitor took around 20 minutes. Knowing where and how to lay the cable was of course an advantage because it saved time.

Commissioning was a success right from the start. Operation is as silent as usual and more effective than the ALDE 3000. In my opinion, hot water preparation can remain switched off because the heating system also produces enough hot water for showering, washing up, etc.

Two-zone operation is not necessary for our motorhome size. If you have a longer and larger vehicle, you may be able to use it.

Final recommendation: Yes, the ALDE 3030 is worth its price. And if you are interested in technology and like to get your hands dirty, we recommend the small but nice workshops!