Criteria for buying a caravan or motorhome

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Anyone thinking about buying a caravan or motorhome for the first time will have a lot of thoughts about what to look out for before making a purchase.

The budget usually determines the manufacturer and age of the desired object of desire, while the imagination is often - somewhat - different.

At the same time, the negative experiences of others with such purchases give you a bad feeling, because trouble is pretty much the last thing you need. So there is a lot of uncertainty and you are on the verge of throwing in the towel, especially if you are not a "professional".

Budget

The tiresome budget, which often throws a spanner in the theoretically perfect worksheet, can rarely be adjusted in the desired direction unless you save for longer and postpone the project.

The market - unfortunately - regulates itself in terms of supply and demand, completely independently of your own desired plans. According to Murphy, the price is always high because - naturally - it occurs to you at the most inopportune time to buy a mobile vacation replacement.

The best time is winter, because demand increases in the spring and catches up again in the fall due to winter vacations, while in winter, especially at the beginning of the year, the cash register is overstretched by insurance payments, Christmas, etc. and there is rarely a large chunk of money available. So now is the time for such purchases.

Costs for registration, license plates, insurance, tax, but also new tires, repairs and, last but not least, various acquisition costs for "camping equipment" or even photovoltaics, batteries, etc. should be included in the budget.

Manufacturer

Caravan

I can report on Hobby, Hymer and Tabbert from my own experience. I am therefore sending these in advance, with the express note that these are my personal experiences, which are not necessarily representative of today's models from the same manufacturers.

The longest double-axle caravan available in 1991 lasted exactly 165 km on the highway when it was new, after which the high bed came loose from its anchorage (screw connections) during the journey and fell onto the lower bed.
This was the first time in the history of Hobby in Rendsburg that they paid back the full purchase price in response to my conversion request.

I then made my way to a caravan dealer in the area. I told them about the incident, they grinned slightly but knowingly and asked me to come along.
I was led to a Hymer caravan, asked to take a seat on the U-shaped seating area, opened the hanging cupboard opposite, sat down on the seat cushion underneath and began to do several pull-ups by simply clinging to the bottom edge of the cupboard and getting started.

He looked at me expectantly after the cupboard had survived this undamaged and he had closed the flap again and explained why this was impossible with Hobby: Hymer uses an aluminum rectangular tube frame which, when screwed onto the base frame, provides a solid base for any furniture attachment. With Hobby, on the other hand, the seating furniture and cupboards are bolted to the base plate, the walls to the rear of the furniture, and the wall cupboards to the top of these. Finally, the roof is attached and screwed to the top of the furniture. These are the caravans that are scattered on the road as a kit in the event of an accident ...

The purchase of a brand-new Hymer caravan in identical length and as a double-axle vehicle was thus sealed, albeit at a significantly higher price. But well, quality costs money!
The caravan was on the road a lot, lived a long time and remained without any repair problems, and was finally sold again at a good(!) price to make way for a Hymer motorhome.

The next caravan was a 15 year old Tabbert Baronesse, about the same length, double axle from year of construction 04.2000. A vehicle that was purchased in mint condition, unused kitchen, but without toilet, with new tires, TÜV / gas test for 6,800 euros.
After installing a Thetford cassette toilet, a 100-liter water tank under the drawbar seat bench of the L-shaped seating group, two PV modules including 2 AGM batteries and converting the lights to 12V LEDs, we used the vehicle to our complete satisfaction, also without any need for repairs.

Motorhomes

Here I can report from purely personal experience with Hymer, US motorhomes and Niesmann Flair 7100. No conclusions can be drawn about current vehicles and manufacturers.

The above-mentioned Hymer on a Mercedes Benz chassis was a vehicle around 6 m long with a manual gearbox; automatic transmission was only available in the larger vehicles. At a price of DM 100,000, this was the only option for me.
Here too, apart from the usual maintenance and wearing parts, I have no negative experiences to report. Get in and ride.
A tractor with a shovel that had not been driven high enough and had driven too far onto the main road killed it by simply shaving off the GRP roof on the passenger side. The insurance paid the new price.

The next motorhome was a used, approximately 6-year-old Suncruiser on an Oshkosh chassis, 7.5 tons, approx. 8 m long, automatic, incl. 6 kW gas generator and gas tank.
After a complete gutting, including the dashboard, which fell victim to the grinder, there were still cables with notes on them, so that later it was still possible to know which one was for what, and was replaced by a leather-covered one, ergonomically arranged with space for the reversing camera, navigation system (the first from Blaupunkt at the time), as well as two AEG C and D network telephones and a C network fax machine.
This was followed by the furnishing with around 24 kitchen cupboards (including wall cupboards), installation of a standard household double sink, an enamel washbasin in the bathroom and a hot-air microwave combination.
A video workstation including equipment for image processing from digital sources, such as CT. MR, DR, etc., X-ray film viewer for thorax images, two high-performance computers, EIZO 26″ monitor and two Sony video monitors for video editing, etc. were installed in the rear.
In future, the motorhome served me as a demonstration vehicle for imaging procedures and processing for clinics. At the TÜV inspection, the total weight, with full tanks, food and clothing, as well as myself, was 7,440 kg ... so a whole 60 kg of payload was lost.

This vehicle also needed no repairs and was later sold to Spain, with all the equipment having been replaced by a U-shaped seating group.

p.s. - A few of the slips of paper were removed from the marked cables without being asked and ahead of time, which is why the assignment was now unclear. A fax to the manufacturer in Oshkosh, near the Canadian border in North America, requesting the wiring diagram was answered in detail and in full within half an hour with several overlapping A4 pages. Try that with local manufacturers!

p.p.s. - At Niesmann, for example, reference is made to Appendix x in the almost 600-page manual with regard to circuit diagrams. Unfortunately, I searched in vain for this appendix. I called the Niesmann factory and they said they would send it to me as a PDF. The PDF arrived - it was exactly the same as I had in the printed version, WITHOUT the circuit diagram appendix. Another call. Yes, that's all we have. My question as to how it was possible to refer to something in the manual if it wasn't included was answered with, we don't know either.

Caravan or motorhome?

This crucial question is probably on everyone's mind at some point. The question is always: what do I want to do with this item?

If I want to spend my two- or three-week vacation in one and the same spot on earth, perhaps even reside on a campsite as a permanent guest, then the caravan is certainly to be preferred.

Depending on the towing weight, the towing vehicle must be somewhat more powerful and is therefore usually larger than the usual car that you would use for trips from home to work or shopping trips.

It's charming to use the towing vehicle to go exploring or shopping from the campsite and return to your caravan in the evening. However, if you want to travel and only stay at a campsite for a few days every now and then, you should be able to maneuver well and have the desire to do so if you don't want it to become cumbersome and a burden over time.

The initial idea of driving to get bread rolls - if you're not staying at a campsite, where you can usually find them in the kiosk - quickly disappears, because you first have to uncouple the trailer from the towing vehicle, lower the crank supports at the front and rear, drive to get bread rolls and do the whole thing in reverse to be ready to drive again with the caravan. At least that's how it turned out for us.

What's more, at least if you're not considering the long version, you generally don't have to convert a fixed bed, but preferably the round seating group, before you can make yourself comfortable for the night.
The attempt to simply leave it at that and sit at the table with two people for dinner usually fails reliably on sight, because you don't always want to look at the unmade beds and simply want to have more space if visitors do come.
So the alternative is to put the beds up in the evening and take them down in the morning ...

One effect that should not be underestimated is that if you are parked at night in an industrial estate, country or federal highway parking lot, it is more common for caravans to be asked by the law enforcement officers where, if you please, you dispose of the waste water.
I had therefore installed a waste water tank and referred to it. That was fine. Water cabs, on the other hand, which are usually found under caravans on campsites, are frowned upon: You could spill something ...

There are some camper van sites in towns and cities, as well as near thermal baths, saunas and leisure facilities. Caravan combinations, on the other hand, are not welcome there, if not explicitly prohibited.

Although a caravan is cheaper to buy than a motorhome, the additional costs for the towing vehicle should not be ignored if you don't already own one.

The motorhome, on the other hand, comfortably combines towing vehicle and caravan in one vehicle, admittedly somewhat larger, but shorter in length than towing vehicle and caravan, making it more maneuverable and easier in the long run.

The disadvantage is that you always have to keep your wits about you if you want to go shopping for lunch without anything flying around your ears.

Advantageous to emphasize: The fact that there is no need to make beds. A motorhome either has drop-down beds above the driver and passenger seats or, for the larger models, a rear bed above the rear garage.
So you can confidently prepare the breakfast table in the evening and then make yourself comfortable in bed, get up rested in the morning, raise the bed (fold-down bed), start the coffee, clear out the fridge and enjoy your meal.

If, for any reason, you are disturbed at the chosen spot, just clear away any unsecured items, get behind the wheel and look for another spot. A matter of minutes.
With a caravan, this is only reasonably quick if it is not unhitched and standing on its supports. However, people are usually a little more generous with caravans when it comes to items standing around, which is why it can take a little longer for a supposed troublemaker to leave the parking space if there is a lack of discipline.

In total, the acquisition costs of a motorhome are similar to those of a suitable towing vehicle and additional caravan trailer.

Interim conclusion

Used vehicles can certainly be of good quality and provide years of reliable enjoyment. New vehicles can do this too, with some exceptions, but at a much higher purchase price.

Is it worth buying a new vehicle? Generally no, because the price drop is too drastic, unless you can claim the loss against tax and compensate for it.

Therefore - yes to used cars! Unfortunately, there are a lot of so-called black sheep, both in the dealer ranks and on the private market, and trust alone is not enough to protect you from disappointment or considerable financial damage.

After a few downpours, some were suddenly confronted with an integrated, but unspecified or even intended, swimming pool in the false floor. According to the police station investigating the fraud, the dealer was known for his dubious dealings. It took almost a year before the purchase price of over EUR 30,000 was refunded after several legal interventions.

So what to do?

The boiler suit would be the right clothing to be able to lie down under the vehicle on offer, and a flashlight is helpful to shed light in places that are difficult to see.
Last but not least, a Moisture meter (preferably a capacitive one, recognizable by a metal measuring ball) to detect hidden moisture, and the flashlight to detect water stains inside the cupboard at the top and bottom.

Caravan

Chassis

It's best to keep the TÜV tests in mind, at least as far as vehicle safety, lighting, brakes, wheel bearings, etc. are concerned.
The tires should still be approved for a longer period of time (DOT -> date) and have a TÜV-compliant profile (if you don't want to replace them anyway).

Wheel bearings should not applaud when the top edge of the tire is shaken vigorously by hand, brake drums should not exhibit unevenly high temperatures after a test drive, which could indicate grinding brake linings or seized wheel bearings, and brake tracks should start and end at the same time on non-asphalted surfaces, which confirms simultaneous gripping and releasing, as well as evenly distributed brake pressure at identical track depths.

Outer skin

In principle, the outer skin should be undamaged. Dents and scratches are unsightly, but not fundamentally critical: scratches can be repaired, dents can be ignored.

Suspicious and reason for a persistent inquiry, but also for a more detailed inspection, are repainted areas on the front end (on alcoves and (partially) integrated vehicles).
In the event of an impact, the forces act across the entire body. It is therefore quite possible that a frontal impact could provoke a crack or leak at the rear. Large dents in surfaces (walls, roof) can also be an indication of such a bump if the surface has warped and the dent has been forced to give way and thus deform due to the absorption of the compression forces.
Inside, this is usually not noticeable as furniture, etc. has a stabilizing effect to counteract the deformation. Doors that close poorly or crookedly, on the other hand, can also indicate warping of the body, unless the cause is just a misaligned hinge.

If you discover a crack in the cladding while traveling, you should drill a 2 mm hole at the beginning and end of the crack and tape over it, including the crack, with e.g. Panzer tape. This prevents the crack from getting bigger. The hole interrupts further tearing.

Floor

The floor must not give a "soft" impression at any point. It must be hard throughout. It makes sense to tap the entire surface. Soft, yielding, non-springy areas indicate possible water damage or simply material fatigue.
If you do not have the manual skills of a carpenter and do not have one in your circle of friends, you should consult a workshop BEFORE buying and, if damage is confirmed, check the costs or refrain from buying.

With double floors, such as in motorhomes, hatches or their lids are often a potential weak point. But also areas that are often walked on, such as in front of the sink or kitchen unit. If necessary, you can use boards cut to size to stabilize these areas, as long as it is certain that no water damage is the cause.

Intermediate floor

While caravans only have one floor, motorhomes often have a space between the underside of the body and the actual floor in the living area.

On the one hand, the intermediate floor is used to accommodate storage space and offers space for the heating, exhaust and fresh air piping, water and waste water tanks, as well as the water pump and water and waste water pipes, cabling and, if necessary, batteries, including electronics.
At the same time, the waste heat generated in the false floor by the heater provides a certain degree of freeze protection for the tank contents and pipes. There is no frost protection guard here, as is regularly installed in caravans.

It is therefore essential not only to look for water stains on the floor, but especially in the intermediate floor.
Limescale or, in the case of copper fittings, verdigris deposits indicate at least the beginnings of leaks. All hose connections should be thoroughly inspected with the aid of a flashlight, and it is also a good idea to tighten them carefully after purchasing the vehicle.

subfloor

The underbody should be free of damage, cable and pipe penetrations intact and the surrounding sealant free of cracks. The brake cables must run smoothly to the handbrake and exert even pressure on the brake pads. Uneven braking action can be adjusted by adjusting the nuts on the linkage (I was allowed to do this once at the TÜV with the Tabbert Baronesse mentioned above).
The wiring of the traffic lights, including the marker lights, up to the plug of the trailer coupling connection socket should also be free of sheath breaks or other damage.

Wall cupboards

Special attention should be paid to the wall cupboards in the ceiling connection area and they should be examined with the above-mentioned moisture meter.

The capacitive devices not only indicate surface moisture, but also moisture present in the depths, as the conductivity of moist materials is different to that of dry materials.

Sometimes, e.g. in the case of water damage already reported by the seller, water has collected in the insulation behind the visible cladding.
This hidden damage is not always visible due to mold infestation. If you then remove the interior coating, usually carpet and plywood, you may find insulation that is saturated with water and therefore no longer has any insulating effect.

It is therefore highly advisable to work with the type of moisture meter described and, despite the three-figure purchase price, it is a very good investment. A refurbishment would definitely be in the higher four-figure range - not something you would want!

Ceiling / skylights

Roof hatches occasionally leak when the waterproofing on the roof has become brittle and porous and therefore leaks. If everything looked clean when the roof was inspected, this does not necessarily mean that this was always the case.

Special attention should therefore be paid to the areas around the inner roof hatch covers. Here too, in addition to a simple visual inspection, the moisture meter helps to detect hidden moisture damage.

The fact that roof hatches do not close "tightly" is due to the forced ventilation that is thus provided and also intended.
If the originals have been replaced with MaxxFan roof hatches with fan, for example, separate rubber seal retrofit kits are available. These are supplied for completely covering installation, BUT then you no longer have forced ventilation.
We have therefore cut the rubber seals at the corners and let them end just before the corners. This stops the coarse draught, but maintains a certain, albeit limited, forced air exchange.
A CO2 detector should be installed so that you are at least warned in good time if the CO2 content is too high.

Windows

The usual opening windows, which lock into various positions and thus remain in place until they are lifted and closed again, are practical, but the telescopic mechanism is sometimes susceptible to minor problems. They can be replaced, but it is best to avoid this. It is therefore worth checking all the windows.

Depending on the mechanism, the locking levers also tend to be stiff and sometimes break off if they are handled too roughly. These should therefore also be considered when checking the telescopic mechanism.

Entrance door

The entrance doors usually have the typical caravan locks, possibly with rods behind the inner cladding, which tend to bend, slip out of their mountings or simply require lubrication over time.

Actuation of the lock and the locking mechanism should not be awkward, but should take place without great effort or the use of "Trick 17"; in particular, the key should be easy to insert and remove.

The door hinges should not show any signs of black abrasion, should not squeak and should run without play.

The circumferential rubber seal should not have any cracks or other damage and - when viewed from the inside against the outside daylight - there should be no air gap between the door and the door frame.

Service flaps

Service flaps are usually opened upwards and have gas pressure springs to prevent them from folding down unintentionally. These must not have any traces of oil on the piston linkage. You can easily replace them yourself, but they ultimately cost money, albeit not much.

The locks must be checked for proper function in the same way as the door lock, and the surrounding seals must be checked for damage, etc.

If service flaps have been retrofitted, it makes sense to ask the "stupid" question of how this was done. Background: Service flaps for self-installation are offered by a number of manufacturers. Without exception, all manufacturers mention in the instructions that a stiffener close to the edge should be inserted in the cut-out made, but this is work and is therefore often overlooked and ignored.
So when the seller tells us about the creation of his work of art, we listen intently to that very moment ...

Beds and mattresses

Whether caravan or motorhome, mattresses and their ventilation are always an issue. The night sweat wants to go somewhere and dilutes unchecked in the topper and/or mattress. In the long run, this becomes too much and mold begins to spread imperceptibly under the mattress. Provided there is sufficient lighting, you will find it the next time you change the bed at the latest.

This is therefore an aspect to consider for used vehicles. Sometimes you will want to replace the mattress with a new one anyway, but the problem remains the same in the long term.

Preventing this is nevertheless easy, even without conversions, slatted frames, etc.: All you need is - don't laugh! - an incontinence fitted sheet of a suitable size under the actual fitted sheet. This ensures tactile comfort and eliminates the risk of mold growth!

Mover

An often ridiculed but definitely useful feature is a so-called mover. This moves the caravan, especially double-axle caravans, backwards and forwards by remote control without any physical effort on your part when maneuvering. Not only does it look funny, but in some situations, especially in rain or snow, it is a very welcome relief!

connection cable

Most caravans and motorhomes, when sold second-hand, contain one or other connection cable for connecting to the shore power supply, whether at the campsite, at home or on the road.

As these are exposed to the weather, they should be made of rubber piping, all the more so if cold regions with sub-zero temperatures of around 20 ... 30 degrees are approached. PVC cables break in the cold and are unsuitable for these regions.

It should go without saying that only cables and plugs that are watertight and in perfect condition without any damage should be used. An RCD is not installed everywhere, which switches off in the event of a fault without health consequences!

A final tip against long fingers, related to high-quality 3 x 2.5 mm² !

Epilogue

After all these more or less clever explanations, I hope I have given you a little insight into the agony of choice between caravan and motorhome, to verify the quality of the used object on offer, etc.

As always, my thoughts may not be the reader's thoughts, which is why I am open to any constructive additions to the topic, which should ultimately benefit every reader.

So please hit the keys and send me a Message to you. Many thanks in advance!