Installation LED bar SUPERVISION FUSION 1300

Reading time 5 minutes

Updated - September 25, 2025

The installation of the LED bar Supervision Fusion 1300, equipped with 30 CREE LEDs of 8 W each, is a worthwhile investment, especially with regard to the resulting safety aspect in winter of recognizing game changes in good time and avoiding accidents.

As can be seen in the video, the result is massively improved road and ambient illumination compared to conventional light supplemented by an LED bar (second 1 - 4 normal low beam, from second 5 high beam with LED bar):

Installation location

While round auxiliary LED headlights are usually installed in front of the radiator area, LED bars are more suitable for use on the roof of a vehicle. This is mainly because the radiator fronts have taken their toll on aerodynamics due to rounded fronts and have therefore become unsuitable for straight light bars.
The round auxiliary headlights may also restrict the field of vision of the frequently installed sensors in the front area of the vehicle, which is why these installation locations should also be chosen carefully.

Roof rack

On the roof, on the other hand, you are used to finding roof racks. The front one lends itself as an installation location for such LED bars.

However, it should be noted that there is still space for cargo on the roof rack, so the LED bar must be mounted below the top edge of the rack.
It should also be borne in mind that the LED bar requires some play between the support and the LED bar due to pivoting and that the installation height must not take up the entire space between the lower edge of the support and the roof surface in order not to restrict convection on the one hand and to avoid wind noise on the other.

Holder extension

The brackets supplied as standard are usually not suitable for mounting without an extension due to the length of 1250 mm and the narrower brackets of the luggage carrier.
Here, for example, 4 mm thick, 50 mm wide and about 80 ... 90 mm long aluminum flat profiles help, which are screwed into holes underneath the carrier after inserting an M6 thread, and at the other end they are fastened above the fastening straps of the supplied brackets with these, also with M6 screws.

Cable laying

The next challenge is routing the cable into the interior. The silicone cable is quite thick and not necessarily ideal for simply routing through the door seal. As it also cannot be replaced with a mechanically thinner cable (silicone cables are unfortunately somewhat thicker and indispensable at temperatures down to -40 °C), the only option is to look for the best way.

This is usually found in the gap above, between the outer edge of the driver's door and the inner edge of the rear door. If you pull off the rubber seal in the top left-hand corner of the rear door, the welded sheet metal seam will appear to be an obstacle.
However, if you run the cable behind the fold directly down into the side panel towards the seat belt reel, you have at least found the initially theoretical route.
Now it is time to put the rubber seal back in its original place. What gets in the way is the cable or, conversely, the metal insert in the rubber seal. However, this can be cut out in an almost U-shape with a sharp side cutter to create space for the cable gland.
It is important that no metal tips remain after cutting out, which could damage the cable, and that work is carried out very carefully.
The path is then paved for the cable, despite the welded edge of the door rebate. The door closes cleanly as usual.

The cable length generally extends to the entrance area of the driver's door. The cable can be routed behind the lower sill panel after it has been removed. A 1.5 mm cable grommet serves as a pull-through aid.²-wire of an installation cable.

OBD-2 connection

The "modern" vehicles still work with relays, but these are no longer activated directly with a mechanical switch, instead all functions are CAN bus (Controller Area Network), i.e. electronically controlled.
The CAN bus can be accessed via the OBD-2 connection (OnBoard Biagnosis). Although the OBD-2 assignment is standardized, some vehicle manufacturers cook their own soup (Bus +/- and K/L-Line). If you own a vehicle that adheres to the standard, you will find the CAN high Signal on pin 6, low on pin 14 (directly opposite).

One could come up with the idea of taking ground and continuous positive from the OBD-2 contacts 4/5 and 16. However, these can only be loaded up to 4 A (2 A) according to the standard at 12 V (24 V) DC. As the interface is to be fused with 5 A, this option is not available.

CAN bus interface

To control the LED bar, you need a vehicle-specific interface module, such as one from CANM8. The module is connected to the vehicle via a 5-pin cable. The printed QR code takes you to the vehicle-specific page and the connection instructions according to the vehicle year of manufacture.
In this example, the white cable is connected to pin 6 and the blue cable to pin 14 of the OBD-2 connection, while the red cable is connected to permanent positive via a 5 A vehicle fuse and the black cable to vehicle ground. The remaining purple cable carries positive when the high beam is activated.

Permanent plus

Permanent plus is - of course - located directly on the battery. Most people don't want to pull a thick cable right through the vehicle, which is why they tend to look closer to the OBD connection, which is needed anyway.

Continuous plus is indicated by a thick, red cable. Thick means high current flow, which is why everything you do with this cable must always be designed for high currents corresponding to the cable thickness!

If the cable is disconnected at a suitable point (note: one side leads directly to the battery and is therefore live!), the incoming and outgoing cable ends must now be reconnected, but in such a way that two further connections must be made, namely the red cable of the CAN bus interface via the 5 A fuse and the red cable of the LED bar via the 20 A fuse.
Busbars are suitable for this purpose, such as this with up to 150 A DC loadable 4 screw terminals.

As the cable ends of the severed cable are often very short, they must be connected to cables of identical cross-section that are almost 20 cm long using cables of the same cross-section. Butt connector extend. The connectors should not be soldered, but crimped professionally.
As the crimping tools may be bulky, the positive cable should be disconnected from the battery to avoid unintentional contact with earth and short circuit!

Relay connection

Terminal 86 of the additional relay to be installed is connected to the violet cable, terminal 85 to earth. If the high beam is activated, the relay receives 12 V via the violet cable and connects terminal 30 to 87.

Terminal 30 is connected to continuous positive via a 20 A car fuse. The red cable of the LED bar is connected to terminal 87, while the black cable is connected to earth. At least the same cable cross-section as the existing connection cable should be used for these two cables!
The yellow or white cable can optionally be connected to ignition plus if the yellow or white illumination of the LED bar is required in normal driving mode.

Relay technology is here explained in more detail.

Driving pleasure at night

Once the function has been tested and all the fairing parts have been refitted, there's nothing standing in the way of night-time driving pleasure!